Powder to foam cleansers a.k.a cleansing grains are an excellent way to make your own face cleanser. You may know that face cleansers typically contain a lot of water and a harsh soap so making DIY cleansers can be very tricky. Also, without the right preservative a homemade cleanser can grow mold quite quickly defeating its purpose. Plus, when you use a soap you run the risk of stripping and drying out your skin. pH is also something to consider when creating your own cleansers. That all being said, DIY powder to foam cleansers are the way to go!
What is a Powder to Foam Cleanser?
A powder to foam cleanser is a formulation of dry ingredients such as clays, herbs, powdered seaweeds, oatmeal, rice powder, milk powder etc. The foam ingredient of the cleanser is often sodium cocoyle isethionate which is a fine powder.
After combining and grinding all your chosen ingredients, you end up with a powder. You typically scoop out about a teaspoon in one palm, a little water in the other palm, combine by rubbing both palms together and voila! You have a foaming cleanser perfect for removing dirt and makeup from the face. The more water you add, the more suds you will get.
What is so great about powder to foam cleansers is that they stay quite fresh for a long time since liquid is not added. No preservative is ever needed and mold is no worry unless you accidentally get water in your container. Adding water at each use activates the powders.
Another perk of a powder to foam cleanser are the bubbles. Many natural DIY cleansers to not have hardly any lather. Sodium cocoyle isethionate actually produces a nice lather.
You may recall that I posted 2 other cleansing grain recipes a while ago. They are similar and are not called “powder to foam” however, they are the same basic concept.
DIY Exfoliating Cleansing Grains Recipe and Rice Bran Vitamin C Cleansing Grains Recipe
What Is Sodium Cocoyl Isethionate?
Sodium cocoyl Isethionate is a powdered surfactant that is considered natural and gentle in DIY skincare. It is made from coconuts. It can be used in scrubs, cleansing bars, shaving cream and powdered cleansers.
Note that sodium Cocoyl Isethionate does not dissolve in water so if it’s being used in a liquid formulation, it will need to be dissolved first in another surfactant.
Caution must be taken when working with it because it is such a fine powder that is easily inhaled. I don’t recommend inhaling it-it’s a very uncomfortable experience. It is recommended to wear a dust mask while using it. Now, if you know me at all, you know I play by no rules-lol. I don’t wear a dust mask but I do exercise extreme caution and avoid coming too close to this ingredient.
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Powder to Foam Ingredient Suggestions:
Clays are typically the main ingredient in powder to foam formulations. Clays are fantastic for detoxing the skin. There are many clays to choose from. Some are best for dry, sensitive skin types and others are more suited for oily skin and problem skin types. My favorite clays are kaolin clay, French green clay and rhassoul clay. Those 3 clays are gentle and great for dry skin. Bentonite clay is probably the most popular clay that is easily found but it can be a bit harsh if you are sensitive and struggle with dryness.
Dried herbs are a great addition to powder to foam cleansers and offer a wide array of benefits. I always have dried lavender, dried rose petals and buds, dried chamomile and dried calendula on hand. Because they are dry, they stay potent and effective. Each one of these herbs can help with healing and calming of the skin. I prefer to get dried herbs from Mountain Rose Herbs.
Oatmeal is another favorite of mine because it is so soothing. It is great for skin conditions like eczema and psoriasis.
Milk powder is a wonderful additive for adding nourishment and hydration.
You can even add a few drops of essential oils to your cleanser!
For more ideas check out my Dry Ingredients for “Just Add Water” Masks.
How to Make a Powder:
Grinding your ingredients together is necessary to make a fine powder suitable for a powdered cleanser. I use my Magic Bullet but have also used a coffee grinder and a Vitamix. I enjoy the coffee grinder because I feel it does a more thorough job grinding the herbs and oatmeal. I’ve not tried a food processor but my guess is, it would work just fine.
Add ALL your ingredients into your grinder of choice so that they all mix together evenly. If there isn’t room in the grinder it is OK to manually mix ingredients in a bowl or add to a jar and shake.
Be sure to grind your ingredients really well. The finer the powder, the better.
I suggest letting the powder sit in the coffee grinder or blender for a little while before removing the lid. Airborne dust can be an issue with this DIY, especially with the sodium Cocoyl Isethionate. Take great care not to inhale!!
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Powder to Foam Cleanser Basic Proportions:
An 80/20 balance is a good place to start with making powder to foam cleansers. However, you may want to play around with the proportions. In wash off recipes, you can have up to 50% of sodium Cocoyl Isethionate in your recipe.
- 80% dry ingredients (clays, oatmeal, herbs etc.)
- 20% sodium cocoyl isethionate
With powdered formulations, it’s difficult to estimate how much ingredients to use to make a certain number of ounces.
My personal recipe is heavy on the kaolin clay because I want the detox. Clay pulls impurities out of the skin so this is a great ingredient for a cleanser. I feel that the oatmeal and coconut powder help to balance the detoxing.
I store mine in a 6 ounce glass jar. I have seen powder pump dispensers on Amazon and I’m curious if this might be a great way to use a powder to foam cleanser so you can ensure you don’t get water in your powder. Comment below if you end up using one!
My Powder to Foam Recipe:
- 1-2 tbsp. SCI
- 2 tbsp. kaolin clay
- 2 tbsp. oatmeal
- 1 tbsp. coconut milk powder
- 1 tbsp. dried chamomile
- 5 drops lavender essential oil
This recipe makes about 4 ounces.
How to Use a Powder to Foam Cleanser:
- Take about a teaspoon of powder in one palm.
- Thoroughly wet your other hand. *the more water, the more suds.*
- Rub your palms together to create a creamy, sudsy liquid.
- Cleanse your skin and rinse.
- Follow up with a toner, serum and moisturizer.
You can use this cleanser in the morning and evening if you’d like. I only use it in the evening to remove my makeup.
Unfortunately, I can’t speak on how well this cleanser removes mascara. I use tubing mascara so I remove it with water before I cleanse my skin. I do know it will not remove waterproof mascara. My guess is that it will remove regular mascara. In the recipe I give you the choice to add 1 or 2 tablespoons of SCI depending on how much makeup you wear.
Enjoy making this easy cleansing recipe and let me know what you think!
xx, Jenni